Picking up surfing isn’t easy. Especially when you live a thousand miles away from the ocean. It’s humbling being the novice. It’s humbling not knowing what to do or how to do it. I think it is even more difficult as an adult man. Most men I know don’t try things that they are not good at. In this episode, I talk about my experiences of learning to surf and stumbling forward.
“It is not the critic who counts; not the man who points out how the strong man stumbles, or where the doer of deeds could have done them better. The credit belongs to the man who is actually in the arena, whose face is marred by dust and sweat and blood; who strives valiantly; who errs, who comes short again and again, because there is no effort without error and shortcoming; but who does actually strive to do the deeds; who knows great enthusiasms, the great devotions; who spends himself in a worthy cause; who at the best knows in the end the triumph of high achievement, and who at the worst, if he fails, at least fails while daring greatly, so that his place shall never be with those cold and timid souls who neither know victory nor defeat.” Theodore Roosevelt
Click to Listen Chasing Adventure: Be Willing to Be the Novice
Off Script:
I’ve listened to this book two times now on Audible, The Happiness of Pursuit by Chris Guillebeau
“A book that challenges each of us to take control – to make our lives be about something while at the same time remaining clear-eyed about the commitment — The Happiness of Pursuit will inspire readers of every age and aspiration. It’s a playbook for making your life count.”
My friend Jake introduced me to this kick-*** portable RinseKit as we took a parking lot shower after a sunset standup paddle session. It is legit. If you have a JoyBucket, carry a pair of running shoes in your car, don’t mind standing naked next to your car between two open doors (this works I promise) before you dash back to your life…Check out this portable shower for extending the full reaches of adventure.